Archive for March, 2011

Off to Obenge

Monday, March 28th, 2011


We just arrived this morning and I already want to leave Kisangani, a city of 700,000 in the center of Congo’s jungle. A cholera outbreak started in the city last week and left 27 dead—200 more cases have been reported. Andy and I are with Terese and John Hart, conservationists who have been working in the DRC for 30 years. They’ve agreed to help us plan our mission. But the question of where to start sampling elephant dung isn’t simple. The region Dr. Wasser wants us to sample most, the proposed Lomami National Park in the 25,000 square mile jungle known as TL2, has become even more dangerous.

The Harts, who have been a driving force behind the creation of Lomani National Park, had just received a letter from the one of their TL2-based supporters. It warned them of a man who is calling himself Moses and planting burning crosses—death threats—in the front yards of people who support the creation of Lomami National Park. President Kabila is expected to approve the park this year. That declaration could crack down on poachers operating in the region, which is why Moses opposes any additional protections to TL2.

Elephant Ivory. Photo by Kyle Dickman

“There‚Äôs so much conflict in the country that we don’t know how many elephants are left in some of DRC‚Äôs biggest protected areas,” says Dr. Samuel Wasser, the director of the Center for Conservation Biology. ‚ÄúOne thing we do know is African elephant numbers are dropping, and a lot of ivory is coming from the Congo.‚Äù Samples from TL2 will help Wasser locate and stop poachers operating around the country.

So we’re going in. The expedition is far and away the most complicated of my life. I’ve never needed a military escort.

A creek in the DRC. Photo by Skip Brown.

First thing tomorrow, John, Andy, and I will fly south to Kindu, a town of 200,000 on the edge of TL2. Over the next five days, we‚Äôll take motorcycles and motorized pirogues the 120-some miles into Obenge, a remote research facility operated by the Harts on the Lomami River. John thinks Obenge‚Äôs remoteness has limited poaching in the region. We’re hoping to collect 30 scat samples from 30 different groups of forest elephants living near the research camp.

 

While Andy, John and I make our way to Obenge from the south, a second team will come from Kisangani in the north. One of the Hart’s TL2 team leaders, Maurice, will be leading the expedition. Joining him is Major Guy, an official in the Congolese army, and several of Maurice’s team members. They’ll be pushing bicycles loaded with three weeks of supplies (camping gear, sampling vials, etc.) 100-some miles into Obenge. They’re expected to arrive on Tuesday.

Once we meet up, Andy and I will spend the next two weeks sampling elephant scat near the Lomami River. John will head back north with Maurice and Major Guy and pay the cross-burning Moses a visit.

‚ÄúI just want to ask him face to face why I haven’t got a burning cross yet,‚Äù says John. “He should have sent me the first one.”

John doesn’t think Moses is dangerous, but wants to flex a little muscle now to show bandits, poachers, etc. that the laws protecting the proposed Lomami National Park will be enforced. We’re now into the heart of our adventure. Find out what happens to John and Moses here, and follow our progress in the jungles on the Spot Map posted at the Elephant Ivory Project‚Äôs homepage. Spot updates will remain stable. Wish us luck.

–Trip Jennings and Kyle Dickman

Unless noted otherwise, all photos and maps provided by Terese Hart. Thanks for your support.

Off to Kisangani

Monday, March 21st, 2011

It’s been a fortunate few days. We arrived in Kinshasa on Monday exhausted from 36 hours of transit and found the Congo just as hot as we left it two years ago. On Tuesday morning, we met with Dr. Terese Hart, a 30-year veteran of conservation in the DRC. Terese first came to the country as a Peace Corp volunteer in 1974. She‚Äôs now in her tenth year studying bonobos, an ape found only in the DRC, in a 25,000-square mile block of forest known as TL2. The region’s an elephant sanctuary on paper but animals are disappearing there faster than ever.

“Research here leads to advocacy because it’s all being destroyed,” says Hart.

To that end, she brought bad news. TL2, one of the four conservation areas we hoped to sample, has come under threat of a notoriously violent poacher and rapist: Colonel Toms. A decade earlier, Toms was sentenced to 20 years in a maximum-security prison for crimes against humanity. He recently escaped and restarted his poaching operations in TL2. MONUC, the UN’s DRC specific security force, has made a commitment to apprehend the Colonel, but no action has been taken yet. It’s like the Wild West. Stability means a calm between warring bandits and rebel groups.

“In many cases, elephant are poached for their meat. Their ivory is sold to buy weapons,” says Hart.

She had come to Kinshasa from her home in Kisangani in part, to speak with the Administrative General of the ICCN, the DRC’s equivalent of a wildlife management agency. She wanted to garner support from the government to get Colonel Toms re-arrested. She also had work to do to make TL2′s designation as a National Park official. Depending on when President Kabila signs the proposition into law, it may happen as soon as this year. Lucky for us, we needed Cosma Wilungula Balongelwa’s approval to make the Elephant Ivory Project a success; and Terese‚Äôs French is better than ours.

With Balongelwa’s blessing, we’re heading some 500 miles up the Congo River to Kisangani tomorrow morning. Terese and her husband John, a researcher in Kisangani for three decades, will decide if the bandit situation is safe enough for Andy and I to go via motorbike 225 miles south to TL2. If it isn’t, we’ll head north to Maiko National Park, another un-sampled area. For Dr. Samual Wasser, the director of the University of Washington’s Center for Conservation Biology and the reason we’re here, TL2 may be the most important of the remaining un-sampled regions in the DRC.

Wasser has scat samples from elephants across most of Africa, and in the regions he doesn’t, he’s able to estimate the genetics of un-sampled populations using a technique known as genetic smoothing. The technique’s success depends upon the distribution of populations Wasser has reference samples from. Elephants that live close together share more genes.

“I have samples from elephants in Salongo National Park in western DRC and Virunga National Park in the east.” says Wasser. The parks are 600 miles apart. TL2 sits right between them. “If I can get samples from TL2, I can estimate with much greater accuracy the genetics of elephants all across the DRC.”

Which could translate into less poaching. If Terese and John decide it’s safe enough to head into the bush, we’ll spend three weeks in TL2 collecting 30 samples for 30 different elephant groups. We’re boarding a plane for Kisangani this morning and will let you if we’re going in as soon as we find out. Huge thanks to the Center for Conservation Biology, the Lukuru Foundation, and the Harts. As always, follow our progress on the Spot Messenger Maphere at the Elephant Ivory Project and our tweets at @EPfilmsTV and @amaser.

–Trip Jenning and Kyle Dickman

Elephant Ivory Project Launches Sunday

Friday, March 11th, 2011


Alright folks, it’s official: On Sunday we’re jumping on a plane bound for the Democratic Republic of Congo to begin the Elephant Ivory Project! It’s been a long two years of preparation, but all the effort will pay off on Monday night when we touch down in Kinshasa, the capital of DRC. Our bags are nearly packed, and our malaria prescriptions are filled.

The expedition has two parts—collect elephant scat samples to help conservation biologist Dr. Sam Wasser pinpoint illegal elephant poaching, and document our adventure to help raise awareness of the rapid decline of wild elephants. Elephant populations are being wiped out at a rate of about 10% a year right now to fuel the illegal ivory trade, so cracking down on poaching is critically important. To learn more about how the project works, click here.

Focus area for EIP: Eastern DRC

Our mission looks like this:

Week 1: Fly into Kinshasa to meet with government officials, pick up permits, and meet veteran Congo field researcher Terese Hart. After a few days in Kinshasa we’ll fly to Kisingani to meet up with Terese’s husband John, and make final plans to head into the field.

Weeks 1.5-4: Exact plans are unknown at this point, but we plan to collect scat samples from two specific areas—TL2 (directly south of Kisingani) and Maiko (southeast of Kisingani).

Week 5: Once we have the samples we need, we’ll head east to the Virunga National Park to drop off the samples with conservation officials. From Virunga, we’ll make our way to Goma, then across the border to Kigali, the capital of Rwanda. From Rwanda, we jump on a plane headed back to Portland, OR!

You’ll be able to follow the expedition in real time by watching the SPOT Live map that’s embedded on our homepage and blog. Trip and I will be sending out Facebook and Twitter updates via satellite messenger, and sending longer reports for blogs. So stay tuned throughout the expedition to watch it unfold. It’s guaranteed to be a wild adventure.

Follow us here:
Elephant Ivory Project Blog
@amaser on Twitter
@EPFIlmsTV on Twitter
Elephant Ivory Project on Facebook

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The Elephant Ivory Project is an EP Films forensic biology expedition to the remote jungle of the Democratic Republic of Congo with the goal of saving wild elephants from the illegal ivory trade. Live updates made possible by SPOT Satellite Messenger.

Follow the Expedition via SPOT Live!

Thursday, March 10th, 2011

Thanks to SPOT, you’ll be able to watch our progress live via satellite! ¬†Stay tuned to the SPOT map below, or check out our SPOT Adventures profile for all the latest action.

Elephant Ivory Project: SPOT Adventures


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